Prusa i3 Build

For those wanting to build a Prusa i3 there are parts & suppliers we used for our builds:

M10 threaded rod - 2 meters
M10 nuts & washers - 38
M5 stainless threaded - 1 meter and 2x M5 nuts
All available from Fastenal

M8 smooth rod about 2.1 meters
For our original build we bought 400mm lengths from BST Automation via AliExpress
http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Free-shipping-for-8mm-L-400mm-Chrome-Precision-Hardened-Rod-Linear-Round-Shaft/314742_619260255.html
Also available from Metal Supermarket

NEMA 17’s
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Germany-Ship-Free-10-PCS-Nema-17-Stepper-Motor-42BYGHW804-with-4800g-cm-1-2A/1548459341.html
You have to buy 10 in a lot for US$135.
Delivered by courier. FedEx charged $15.00 after delivery

LM8UU, 608ZZ and 623ZZ bearings - lots of ebay sellers.
12 LM8UU’s needed

2x GT2 20 tooth pully and 2m belt - ebay or AliExpress

M3 bolts, washers and nylocks
ebay vendors. We bought 50 or 100 bags of 10mm, 14mm,18mm and 25mm and 100 washers/nylocks

Heat Bed - see Dan Royer

RAMPS ebay, Aliexpress or see Dan Royer
Cheapest on AliExpress:
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Mega-2560-R3-1pcs-RAMPS-1-4-Controller-4pcs-A4988-Stepper-Driver-Module-for-3D-Printer/1947385400.html

endstop switches - 3 needed, ebay or see Dan Royer

Power Supply, either an ATX or a slim style LED
Tinkerine have a 15A or ebay vendors.
$40.00 Canadian for a 30A from a ebay vendor in Ontario with free shipping:
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/261704139766

For the hotend we bought a genuine J-Head from MakerFarm

Wiring kit - ebay or AliExpress

16 or 18awg wire for wiring 12V to RAMPS and also heated bed and hotend - Princess Auto

Steve

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They only have 5/16" stainless steel rods, which aren’t chromed or precision. So you’ll likely end up with bearings pitting the rods and having issues.

There should also be sets on Aliexpress for similar stepper motors that come in lots of 5, you just need to make sure you get the right motor length and amperage. RobotDigg also seems to have some fair priced steppers which I plan to try out.

You can get hard shafts from McMaster McMaster-Carr not hard chromed, but available in Steel(Harder) and Stainless Steel

Or from printers and scanners for free, if you can find the right sizes or
make them work. Shit’s expensive, yo

Locally I use metal supermarket for all the metal rods. They cut it to length and it arrives in one package to your door. Convenient!

Do they carry precision rod though? I don’t see anything like that on their site. I do however have a few year old HP printer that went for poop, if some one wants to blow that shit up for some rods.

I did buy M8 smooth rod from a 3D printer supplier out of Ontario, but they screwed up the order so badly I don’t want to recommend them. What we bought from the AliExpress supplier was better quality than what we got from the Ontario supplier but cost more.

Steve

Other suggestions for M8 smooth rod in this topic:
https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/3d604/-S1NPwICtms

So it looks like the M8 Smooth Rod may be the most difficult to source…
I have started getting the various parts and bits (thanks for the link to the power supply)…

I have been picking up a few of the parts and looking for decent Canadian sources…
Here are some links that others may find interesting…
Or not…

Build Links
Prusa i3 - RepRap (PRUSA Wiki)
http://www.instructables.com/id/Building-a-Prusa-i3-3D-Printer/ (Kevin & Steve Instructions)
https://github.com/sgraber/Prusa3_LC (Plywood Frame CAD Drawings)
GitHub - josefprusa/Prusa3-vanilla: Prusa3 vanilla (Plastic Parts CAD Drawings)
http://abella.net/dev/manual-r13.pdf
http://www.3dprintronics.com/prusa-i3-tutorial
http://reprapobchod.cz/download/prusa_i3_frame_kit_build_manual.pdf
RepRap Calculator - Original Prusa 3D Printers
Calibration - RepRap
Threaded rod - RepRap

Info Links
http://reprap.org/wiki/PCB_Heatbed
http://www.danielhansen.net/2013/10/reprap-3d-printer-prusa-i3-build-log.html

http://www.macetech.com/blog/comment/reply/125?quote=1
http://www.timelab.org/sites/all/files/MAKE_Ultimate_Guide_to_3D_Printing.pdf
http://reprap.org/wiki/A4988_vs_DRV8825_Chinese_Stepper_Driver_Boards

Supplier Links

http://www.a2aprinter.ca/

http://shop.folgertechnologies.com/
http://reprap.org/wiki/Canadian_Suppliers

1 Like

Thanks for the list of links.

I’m going to try to build one of these printers as well.

I’d thought about building one before, but it was too overwhelming a job to do alone. (This was before I found out about the Hackspace and the local 3D community.)

Off to read the instructions.

Some links to the stl files

Rework on thingiverse:

Kevins modified Y motor and endstop mounts:

X-belt tensioner:

Z endstop we use:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:394903

Kevins Z top mounts modified:

Kevins bed level nut holders:

Kevin also has a re-designed Y tensioner

Steve

Also use this fan/mount for PLA printing:

I just received some beautiful case hardened 10mm x 610mm shafts from Rotoprecision. They’re precision and straight as an arrow. $80 for 6 including shipping.

Any thought/recommendations/comments on hot ends? Sizes, types, etc. I’m leaning towards the Hexagon 1.75 (available at a good price from Dan Royer) but would welcome any advice. My needs are pretty generic as I’m sure I’ll want to try different types of filaments, etc…

@ashley - Good info on the Rotoprecision source. I have ordered some 8mm from AliExpress but will try this place the next time (if there is a next time)

Thank you to Bernie for this awesome Custom “VHS” Frame for the i3!!

5 Likes

@packetbob, If you are just starting out and plan to print mostly PLA and ABS, then I recommend a genuine J-Head. All-metal hotends like the ever popular E3D and the hexagon are great for high temperature filaments but there is a slightly higher risk of filament jams since the metal bore must be very well polished to achieve the same low friction as the J-Head’s PTFE liner (this is ultimately what separates the good hotends from the bad, that and heat dissipation / heat creep). It is recommended that you season all-metal hotends with oil prior to use, especially for PLA. With a J-Head, you just install and go and you will have zero problems with it. The heating resistor used in the J-Head is also, IMHO, a little safer than the 40W ceramic cartridge that you find in the all-metal ones.

Thanks for the info… What about recommended filament and orifice size? At least for someone starting off?

0.4mm nozzle is the most common, so start there. As to 3mm or 1.75mm…probably 1.75mm since it is fast becoming the standard.

It also gives you the option of choosing to use a direct drive extruder.

1 Like