Here are the STLs for the stand. bottomCover.stl (183.4 KB) WandHolderBody3.stl (673.5 KB)
they are designed to be printed with 0.2mm layer height, but for the body, i recommend slicing using prusa adaptive layer height to shave some time off the print.
The idea with this hack is that we are removing the button, and replacing that with the mono jack to work with switches. Conveniently using the hole left by the button to allow for routing of wires, thus removing the need for drilling additional holes.
1x mono jack [@chadleaman please fill in the part detail]
~20 cm of 2x26AWG multi-core wire, or 2 pieces 20cm regular stranded wire (24~26AWG)
hot glue
solder
tools needed:
#0 phillip screwdriver
flat head screwdriver for prying
soldering iron
hot glue gun
how-to
Loosen the screw and remove the battery cover. Caution: the springs on these battery contacts are pretty loaded, the batteries may temporarily become projectiles.
Remove any battery that did not eject itself.
The motor and the clear globe is part of the same assembly, carefully lay all the part out, and try and avoid putting strain on any of the solder joints
Start reassembling the wand by putting the globe and motor assembly back into the half of the handle with the button hole
Note the alignment of the motor and the clear globe. See photos below
Snap close the handle, being careful to not pinch any wire inside.
Replace all four screws.
Re-insert battery and tighten the battery cover screw
Now is a good time to test the result of the hack.
Strip the other end of the wire and touch them together. If all goes well, the motor should spin and the light would come on. If not, open up the handle and check:
– wiring, no cold solder joint or frayed/pinched wire
– mechanical interference, the axle may be rubbing up at the some wires
– The L-shaped metal piece isn’t making good contact against the spring around the motor axle.
MIMI! I can’t believe the TLC you put into this and documenting this. I’m going to pick up another one of these wand tonight and give it a go to see if it passes the “Chad test” (if Chad could build it, any idiot could build it lol).
Thank you for all the energy and time put into this one, you’re awesome!
Thanks Jake - good to know what switch model that is. Am I reading that right that it’s $2.40 per jack. I’m sure the digikey quality is good. Is that something you think would be on aliexpress for less, or would you advise to stick with digikey components?
I based the jack model off what I saw in the 3D model, but now I see that doesn’t match the picture in Step 19. Maybe @Mimi can confirm the design intention there. (Should be enough space for either, or ideally add the necessary space to work with a variety of panel-mount jacks)
As for sourcing, the ideal case is a balance between ordering time and the cost of a single unit / single build. (There is nothing special about Digi-Key, we often use them internally for speed / selection / and since we often hit minimum order to qualify for free shipping). There is space in the BOM to add alternatives and that’s a good option if a maker can wait, or is making enough to justify buying in bulk.
Another option which can often be cheaper is to use the end of a cable with a female jack. Can often find these extension cable at local Dollar Stores. (Usually Stereo rather than Mono, but that can work)
Edit: (May also want to consider available quantity - the one I originally linked has ~70K, whereas that one has ~1.5K)