Is there anyone who uses the wood working tools on a regular basis want to look at getting a new blade for the table saw?
It looks and smells like the blade is burning it’s way through the wood vs cutting it.
I’m on-board, and have been using the wood shop a fair amount. I don’t know what to buy, any suggestions?
Before you run out and buy a new blade check two things. First, ensure that the blade is not installed backwards. I know that sounds silly but it happens and will cause the exact situation you describe. Second, check that it isn’t gummed up with pitch, which is also very common. If it is gummed up, soak it in a dish of Simple Green for a little while and scrub it with a toothbrush to remove all the gunk.
If you decide that you really do need a new blade, get a good quality 50-tooth combination blade. Freud or CMT are good brands that are reasonably priced. Don’t cheap out on an Oldham or other bargain brand. Expect to pay about $50 to $60. A combination blade is good for both ripping and crosscutting.
There is also spare blades side of the machine. Maybe try those first to see if the problem goes away
Combo blades are a compromise for every type of cut, they are not optimal for either and give mediocre results. Best to have a nice 80 tooth for fine work and cross cutting and a cheap ripping blade for cutting along the grain.
If you’re running your own equipment, that’s a fair point. Given that we have people cutting metal with a wood blade on the bandsaw, a compromise solution is probably the most realistic solution.
The table saw at the space uses 10" blades … in case you didn’t know. You also probably want a full kerf unless you are skilled with the table saw and understand how thinner blades can flex.
Hey all, I got a membership this month mostly for use of wood shop area. I only just saw this thread but I’ve already purchased a new blade for the table saw. I’ll be installing it today if I can make it there or early next week.
its a combination blade with 40 teeth, so nothing exciting but I can guarantee it will work better than whats currently on the table saw.
This is perhaps a good place to gently remind people of rule 0 during Tuesday night open house.
During any scheduled event please consider how much noise you are making while the event is underway. In particular the tablesaw while the space is being visited by guests that we are doing tours for. And hoping to make into paying members.
As a bottom liner of the open house the last few weeks I have had to ask that the table saw only be used for one or two quick cuts as opposed to continual use during the evening. This applies generally to any scheduled event on the Calendar, however individual events may be more or less able to deal with the noise. Working with the bottom liner is encouraged to determine what’s not disruptive to the session.
Your co-operation and consideration goes a long way.
Thank you!
Thanks @Ben_Bleackley, I don’t use the wood working equipment as I have a table saw etc at home so it’s great to see someone step up and look after this.
I wouldn’t go so far as to say that combo blades give mediocre results. A decent Freud combo blade produces pretty good cuts and generally better cuts than a budget crosscut or rip blade.
This is generally true although you will pay considerably more for a full kerf blade these days now that thin kerf blades have become the norm. I prefer a full kerf blade however, if you have an under-powered tablesaw (under 15 amps) then a thin kerf blade is the best choice. You can minimize chatter by not raising the blade any higher than necessary and by using a slower feed rate when pushing your stock through the saw.
Would you say that the table saw at the space is “under-powered”? (I’m asking so that I know if I should chose thin kerf blades when I buy one too.
What is the proper amount? I’ve been using 1/2 to 3/4" above the top of the material to cut
I really can’t say as I’m not familiar with the hackspace tablesaw. Check the motor rating. If it rated for less than 15 amps then I would say that it is under-powered. It also depends on the thickness of your stock and whether or not you are cutting hardwood or softwood. If you can hear the blade slowing down as you feed your wood then it is definitely under-powered.
The proper blade height is just high enough to expose the bottom of the gullet between the teeth. Depending on the blade that would be somewhere in the neighbourhood of 1/4 to 3/8". You can lower the blade a bit lower than that but you would have to slow your feed rate as the blade will not be able to clear the sawdust as easily.
Okay, I managed to get into VHS tonight so the blade is installed. while the table saw was opened I also took the opportunity to dust it out some. As mentioned above the blade is thin kerf so just feed the boards through a little slower if your running into trouble.
I was using the table saw to cut a variety of hardwoods and the new blade cut them nicely with minimal tear out on the cross cuts. hooray the saw is functional and doesn’t smoke up the place!
I purchased this blade because it was A) cheepish and B) had good reviews on performance and longevity. For future blades, I would expect a 10" combination blade with full kerf and more teeth to be better for our collective needs, but also more expensive.
Not sure if this was mentioned, but regardless of the blade, if you have the fence locked on the wrong side (the lock should go before your cut, not after) then it’ll end up pinching your wood between it and the blade. I made tooons of smoke the first time I used the saw, but figured it out for my table and did ok, just had some burning when I stopped my wood to reposition my hands and it brushed against the same spot for a bit.
What do you mean by “locked on the wrong side”?
I just looked at the saw again and it only locks on the one side, I actually meant, if you are pushing your wood the wrong direction, if you push it with the blade, then the fence lock is on the opposite side of the table from you (apparently not that obviously because I did this), if you cut this way you’ll be wedging your material against the fence between the blade, if you go the correct way the fence will push away and open up for your cut piece.
Please keep the old blade btw; it’s good steel to make other blades, assuming nobody is interested in sharpening it.
Having it sharpened is about 1/4 the cost of replacing it.